Comparative analysis of original face and skin-warped average face images for the scoring of skin attributes

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In the cosmetic field, claim substantiations face several challenges.One that could seem trivial is illustrating the performance of a product. With the growing awareness of subjects’ image rights and the implementation of more regulations to protect personal data, presenting the effects of a product using the very image of a subject becomes increasingly complicated.

Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier

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Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don subsp. italicum (H. italicum italicum) from the Asteraceae family grows on dry, rocky or sandy ground around the Mediterranean Basin and is commonly known as the everlasting plant.

Malassezia restricta-mediated Lipoperoxidation: A Novel Trigger in Dandruff

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Dandruff is a common scalp disorder with multiple microbial and host-related factors contributing to its aetiology, including alterations in scalp sebum.

Evaluation of a new connected portable camera for the analysis of skin microrelief and the assessment of the effect of skin moisturisers

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The skin surface roughness is an indicator of interest for dermatology and cosmetology. Increased in xerotic skin or irritation, it is one of the most common frequent dermatological disorders.

Analysis of correlation and construction of a predictive model of skin transparency using parameters from digital images of the face

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Skin transparency is a cosmetic asset highly considered by Asian women. Resulting from complex light interactions within the skin, but still not fully understood, there is no simplemethod to measure it objectively.

Profiling TLR agonist activity in keratinocytes and link to bacteria-induced innate immunity activation

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In this study, our goal was first to functionally profile and characterize the response of normal human keratinocytes (NHEK) to microbial patterns (TLR agonists) and IL-1α in parallel. To do so, the effects of multiple TLR agonists and IL-1α were evaluated on the gene expression profile, on signal transduction (NF-ƘB translocation) and also on IL-8 and IL-6 release. Secondly, we also tried to link these responses to those of pathogens of interest in skin microbiota (namely, C. acnes, S. aureus and P. aeruginosa), by evaluating the effect on IL-8 release by NHEK infected with living bacteria from these 3 strains...

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio‐instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

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Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups.

Behavior of the two circulating androgens testosterone and DHEA and their main intracellular metabolites in an androgen-sensitive sebocyte cell line.

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Androgens are known to strongly regulate the sebaceous gland. Relationships with testosterone have been reported and little is known about the role of DHEA. We showed that the most potent intracellular androgen metabolite, dihydrotestosterone (DHT), induced AR translocation, specific transcripts such as ras-related dexamethasone induced 1 (RASD1) and lipogenesis/lipid storage. We used these parameters to assess the behaviour and activity of the two main circulating androgens TESTO and DHEA, in comparison with DHT, in this model.

Behavior of the two circulating androgens testosterone and DHEA and their main intracellular metabolites in an androgen-sensitive sebocyte cell line.

Androgens are known to strongly regulate the sebaceous gland. Relationships with testosterone have been reported and little is known about the role of DHEA. We showed that the most potent intracellular androgen metabolite, dihydrotestosterone (DHT), induced AR translocation, specific transcripts such as ras-related dexamethasone induced 1 (RASD1) and lipogenesis/lipid storage. We used these parameters to assess the behaviour and activity of the two main circulating androgens TESTO and DHEA, in comparison with DHT, in this model.

Innate immunity activation of sebocyte cells by living bacteria. Evidence of a potential immunosuppressive effect of DHT.

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Acne is a skin pathology targeting the pilosebaceous unit…sebum hypersecretion and bacterial infection. We studied the effects of living bacteria on the induction of an innate immune response in a sebocyte cell line.

Pharmacological effects of anti-androgens and other compounds in an androgen-sensitive sebocyte cell line.

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We analysed the activity of reference anti-androgens (Finasteride, Dutasteride, Cyproterone acetate), at the level of their potential targets (5-alpha-reductase, AR translocation, induced transcripts) and in a functional lipid accumulation assay. We also evaluated this androgen-induced lipid accumulation assay as a potential pharmacological tool to detect potential inhibitors from both androgenic and non-androgenic origins.

Androgens activate lipogenesis through an AKT-independent mTOR pathway stimulation and a limitation of autophagy in an androgen-sensitive sebocyte cell line.

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Androgens are key regulators of sebaceous function... A link between mTOR and androgen signaling has previously been reported...as well as a link between these processes and lipid synthesis...Here we aimed at confirming that DHT-induced lipid synthesis/accumulation is at least in part dependent on mTOR activation in the SEBO662AR cell line and that the autophagic process is consequently modified by the androgenic treatment.
in vitro and ex vivo assays: skin protection and immune defense system

Pollution and epigenetics: Histone H3 modifications in keratinocytes after exposure to urban dust and Benzo(a)pyrene

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In this work, human epidermal keratinocytes were used to study the effects of urban dust and benzo(a)pyrene on the epigenetic pattern of the histone H3 protein. The assay was then used to screen a series of plant extracts in order to find cosmetic actives to protect the skin against air pollution.