In the present study, we identified new properties of Aphloïol (syn. mangiferin) in improving skin barrier function, especially by promoting keratinocyte differentiation, synthesis of transmembrane glycoprotein and lipid neosynthesis.

The development of new anti-ageing products needs performant in vitro models mimicking morphological changes and physiological modifications appearing during skin ageing. In order to have access to a simple model mimicking the epidermis ageing but in relation with a normal dermis, we have developed a new in vitro model of reconstructed skin comprising an aged epidermis covering a reconstructed dermis built with collagen and normal (young) fibroblasts.

These data suggest that topical C-xyloside application in vivo may be efficient in inducing a better dermal-epidermal cohesion when such a junction is deficient, as is the case in photo-aged or chronologically aged skin. Moreover, a statistically significant increase in CD44 expression was noted in the epidermis of C-xyloside-treated compared to the placebo treated skin areas.

Cosmetic ingredients and mixtures of ingredients absorbing UV light (in particular UV filter chemicals used, for example, to ensure the light stability of cosmetics or used in sun protection products) should be tested for acute phototoxic and photogenotoxic potential.